Eleanor Medhurst’s latest book delves into the diverse styles of women-loving women throughout history, from Queen Christina of Sweden to modern expressions like Kristen Stewart’s outfits. She examines societal views, key figures, and the political significance of lesbian fashion, arguing for its role in challenging gender norms.
Eleanor Medhurst’s new book, “Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion,” explores the diverse clothing styles of women-loving women throughout history. From the 17th-century Christina, Queen of Sweden, who mixed masculine and feminine attire, to the 1920s Parisian bar Le Monocle, where patrons wore everything from tuxedos to dresses, the book covers significant historical figures and moments.
Medhurst delves into the styles of Stormé DeLarverie, known for her tailored suits and role in the Stonewall uprising, and features modern expressions of lesbian fashion, such as Kristen Stewart’s outfits in the film “Love Lies Bleeding” and the fashion label Kallmeyer’s emphasis on suits and waistcoats.
The book also addresses the broader societal views on lesbian fashion, highlighting how it has oscillated between mainstream acceptance and stigmatization. It traces the impact of figures like Anne Lister, whose masculine style earned mixed reactions in the 19th century, and examines the commodification of lesbian aesthetics, such as the “lesbian chic” trend of the 1990s.
Medhurst, who started the blog “Dressing Dykes” and gained a following on TikTok, argues that lesbian fashion offers ways to challenge gender roles and express identity. Her book underscores the importance of clothing as both a personal and political tool in the LGBTQ+ community.
